Empyreal Brew Day

Empyrean Brewing Company in the Haymarket district of downtown Lincoln.

Empyrean is an old-fashioned word meaning ‘the heavens.’ I admit to having to look it up. Empyreal is the adjective meaning ‘heavenly.’ And heavenly was generally my experience, Thursday, while I was able to brew my Dark Horse Münchner Dunkel recipe with Empyrean brewmaster Rich Chapin.

The power of positive, peripheral thinking is what got me to this opportunity. The facts in the case are as follows: it was my first time entering the Empyrean Beer Quest competition. Being new to town, I was unfamiliar with Lincoln’s water chemistry. I did not have expectations about how wooing of the public vote took place, nor did I have very much time to make the beer. All entries had to be lagers and I only had five weeks.

I analyzed these facts while wearing dirty underwear. Though it may seem at least a non sequitur, if not a downright disgusting image, the underwear thing is symbolic of letting go of expectation. It comes from a long ago discovery that when I just went out with dirty clothes I was more likely to meet up with attractive, friendly ladies than when I bathed and primped. Maybe it was pheromones left unwashed. But I think it was likely due to opening up a well of possibility in the universe, rather than trying to constrain outcome. There was something about putting distance between me and success that actually brought me closer to it. This is the peripheral vision part of the philosophy… I mean, not looking straight ahead at the positive outcome I desired, but scanning the horizon, ready to notice that cosmic opportunity I had denied direct focus. Have you lost a contact lens, and after much searching given up, only to find the damn thing the moment you stopped looking for it. That’s the phenomenon.

So this is where I put myself as I considered the aforementioned facts.  It would be a beer best suited to using undoctored  Lincoln water, therefore a dark lager. It needed to be of average strength given the time available, but have a rich flavor attractive to all sorts of beer drinkers. That left me with either a schwarzbier or a Munich dunkel. The latter is a little sweeter and showcases decoction mashing, so that’s the beer I chose. In a sense, none of this was up to me, the facts put me there. Then again, I might have come to the same conclusion by just making an intuitive decision. We can never know.

I have heard a lot of stories about Beer Quest. They range from how the event is jury rigged to how the winning beer brewed on the 15 barrel system will never taste like the original. Axioms and idioms have appeared in the parlance of the local brewers. “You’re better to finish first or eleventh, than anywhere in between.” That’s because the winning brewer gets a free keg of the scaled-up beer, and brewers finishing out of the top ten don’t have to share their beer with anyone.

Based on this one experience, I can tell you that the contest has rules. Some are abided by hard and fast, others lack a referee. There are inequities and home field advantages. Like a political race, you can induce voters to vote for you, the brewer, rather than for the best beer. It is a real life contest. It is fallible. The frustrations it engenders are synonymous with those in everyday life: when your favorite team loses the homecoming game, when the wrong candidate gets elected, when every restaurant in town serves the same spinach and artichoke glop. You are not going to change the occurrence of these things, anymore than I could change the brewing system my double decoction dunkel was brewed on.

Base malt for the recipe was 588 pounds of Munich malt - toasty, bittersweet loveliness.

After a two-temperature mash program, the mash is transferred to the lauter tun.

The first runnings from the lauter tun enter the bottom of the kettle. The chestnut color and malty aroma were much like my homebrewed version.

Once all the sweet wort was in the kettle, Rich took a sample for measuring the sugar content with a refractometer. So far, so good. Looks like we'll hit our target gravity.

In go the hops - French Strisselspalt - just like my recipe called for. Soon a wonderful lemon aroma captured our imaginations.

The wort was whirlpooled, then chilled right to 55 degrees. It travelled underground to the adjacent building where the fermentation vessels are located. Here Rich pushes the beer, a sizable yeast pitch (in the keg), and adds oxygen.

Here's where the Dark Horse is now busily fermenting. In a few weeks I'll be sitting at the bar trying it out! Hope you will be, too.

If anything, the trials and tribulations of Beer Quest mimic real life. For me, it was a personal test of attitude and vector. For others it may be a frustrating series of hems and haws trying to get outside the box of expectation and entitlement they’ve constructed for themselves. I know only this: that the more I know about beer, the less I know, and that as I contemplate what to brew for the next Beer Quest I will burn my road map and start a new journey from scratch. Winning is not everything. I’ll settle for 2nd through 10th.

Cheers! TPJ

Getting Cheese Delirious

Chèvre interior, blue mold exterior! Served with a refresher from Leuven!

I’ve got a serious case of ‘ants in my pants.’ Look what UPS just delivered for Friday’s cheese and beer event! He was smirking as he bounced down the stairs. Was it the fact that I was caught listening to SOMA-FM’s Underground 80s music at a volume sufficient for a block party? I wouldn’t know, because I was momentarily distracted by the lyrics…

A little something to make me sweeter
Oh baby refrain from breaking my heart
I’m so in love with you
I’ll be forever blue
That you give me no reason
Why you’re making me work so hard

Erasure was the one-hit-wonder, in case you must know. Kismet, synchronicity, or just the hollow-graphic nature of New Wave? Dunno. As an old friend used to paraphrase from a very different band in the 80s “Nous sommes des fromages.” Cheers! TPJ

Cheese and Beer Runup

With just a couple of days before our inaugural cheese and beer event in Lincoln, we received a nice writeup from Star City Blog’s beverage reporter Alexis Abel.

You can link to it here. Oh yeah, that fellow Cory was a trip – hope we see him on Friday!

If you live in these parts and haven’t gotten tickets yet. Do it while they last. Cheers! TPJ

A Convoy of Flavor Wheels

A couple of winters ago I made made my own maple syrup in Vermont. It started out more as a reminiscence of when my Dad would do it, tediously cooking down the sap over the two burners of a Coleman stove. Or maybe it was to relive the childhood smell memories of wood smoke and tree sugar forged in local sugarhouses. It is almost sugaring time again and that reminded me of something peculiar that happened when making that syrup last time.

It didn’t taste like maple syrup. It tasted wonderful, but nothing like what a New Englander would call essentially maple. Then I remembered the maple syrup flavor wheel I saw on the wall at Bascom’s, the place I’d bought the used sap buckets, lids, spouts, a razor sharp drill bit, and a hydrometer.

I saw that wheel from a distance and thought to myself, “C’mon, how many flavors can maple syrup really have?” I looked closely at it. There was mention of clove, smoke, molasses, forest humus, dried herbs, plastic, you name it. It wasn’t until I had that sap boiling – this was sap that only ran for two days before cold weather stopped the flow for anther few weeks – that I became aware of a corn-syrupy aroma. It was definitely corn. Then I discerned lightly toasted marshmallows, vanilla, and cocoa powder. Everything was clean. I hadn’t made candy or cake in any pots. It was the syrup made from the earliest runnings of sap from my trees that grew in a certain place on shallow soil atop slate ledges made of fossilized Lake Hitchcock clays, those clays made of the fine, fluvial residues of glacial till. I was befuddled – there was no trace of maple.

So here’s that flavor wheel, courtesy of Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada.

The way my mind works, or doesn’t on a given day, naturally leads me to think about other flavor wheels. Sadly, the first thing to pop up was “whatever happened to Flavor Flav?” The rapper with big clock around his neck.

I don’t know if he likes maple syrup. Hard to believe, but true, I’ve met people who don’t like the taste of real maple syrup having been brought up on the artificial kind. Flavor Flav has all that gold dentistry. It’s called a grill in case you missed that one on TV.

 

Grillin' 'n chillin' with Flavor Flav. Take that Bobby Flay. (Source: http://www.themoderndaypirates.com)

Slightly more seriously, I began to think about all of the other flavor wheels out there. One I use regularly is Dr. Morton Meilgaard’s beer flavor wheel, though I admit that it isn’t as robust as I wish it were. It doesn’t list “deteriorating vinyl from the dashboard of an ’87 Buick driven by a four-pack-a-day smoker of menthols” or “burnt hair caught fire in the bunsen burner when she leaned too close to her lab partner.” But I’d say it is normally adequate.

There are flavor wheels for wine, cheese, tea, cannabis… all sorts of things. In fact, I’m inspired to start collecting as many flavor wheels as I can.

Here’s a good one for coffee, from gourmet-coffee.com.

And another fun one for chocolate from Chocolopolis. It is a little hard to read on the light background, however.

And the last one for today, also hard to read on a light background, is the Cognac Aroma Wheel from Cognac.com. It is arranged by season of the year. Ahhh. Cheers! TPJ

Surely Surly isn’t Squirrely

I won’t go on (too) long about this, but it caught my attention and it galls me that an averaged-sized microbrewery in Minnesota is being kept from selling beer at its own facility by a strict reading of arcane 3-tier system rules – rules that have been modernized in half of the states without cataclysm.

I’m not in the trenches on this one. It is just an all too familiar story. I’m not from Minnesota and I’ve never even had a Surly beer. I’ve read two articles on the subject, and the quotations that follow came entirely from this piece and this other piece.

These journalists seem like good writers not prone editorializing, which is why I am writing this. Because I am outraged. All I’m going to do is repeat bits from these two pieces and add my own two cents. This is my editorial opinion.

The Background

Surly Brewing currently makes beer in Minnesota. Surly hopes to open brewpub which is costing them $20 million. This venture will contribute to the State’s coffers and commerce through permits, licenses, excise taxes, employment and employment taxes, purchasing of materials, and profit (and more taxes) paid by those who sell Surly’s beer in their networks and locations. [Ed. Who isn't getting a slice here? It's the distributors who want their 20-plus percent for stale-storing perfectly good beer in a warehouse while they collect graft, gratuities, or "sales incentives" from the top bidders. They're P-O'ed that some business might have the gall to make beer and not pay them to ruin it! After all, they are entitled by law to distribute all the alcohol.]

The Board of the Minnesota Licensed Beverage Association (MLBA) appears to be run by some faction of: 1) fools, 2) pantywaists afraid of legal action by the major breweries who fund the distributorships, or 3) chicken littles that imagine an incremental change in outmoded law will result in a total collapse of beverage retailing.

Minnesota Public Radio states that the MLBA “represents Minnesota liquor retailers and wholesalers.” [Ed. Hello? What about the producers - the brewers and the distillers? Some 3-tier system when the agency in charge represents two of the three factions in this age-old farce. Who put these guys in charge and how does a brewer get fair representation?]

The Characters

MLBA Executive Director of Smug: Frank Ball. (Source: minnesota.publicradio.org/)

MLBA Executive Director Frank Ball, who earlier this week reportedly stated “We’re not opposed to any [emphasis added] of this. We want them to build a brewery. Surly has a wonderful product.” (Subtext: but we aren’t saying anything about actually selling said product.) A day later his tune was less catchy “We’re not talking about tires, batteries or accessories. This is alcohol, and it’s highly regulated. There’s a reason this law has been on the books since 1933.” [Ed. Yeah, because do-nothing bureaucrats can't get past the bathroom mirror to modernize laws that were instituted in the wake of a) the Great Depression, b) 13 years of Prohibition, and c) lobbying by gangster-owned distribution networks].

Omar just wants be able to sell his beer at his new brewpub, but a capricious law says he's too big. (Source: blogs.citypages.com/)

Then we have brewery owner Omar Ansari. Seems sort of like Minnesota’s answer to Sam Calagione or Greg Koch. He has big plans for a destination brewpub that would draw big dollars to whichever city he chooses. “We’re not looking for the three-tiered system to go away. All we’re asking is to sell glasses of our own beer at our own facility.”

While Ball fights back with “You’ve got to play fair and Surly is asking for an unfair advantage. It would be one thing if they were a smaller brewer. But when you make over 3,500 barrels, you’re a pro and there are rules to follow.”

Meanwhile, other brewers in Minnesota, those without such grandiose plans, sound like 3-tier poster boys. According to Ted Marti, the president of Schell Brewing, “Our retailers are our lifeblood; they’re the reason we exist.” [Ed. No. Your customers are the reason you exist. Remember them, the people that buy your beer?] And then you have Mark Stutrud, founder of Summit Brewing. “We cannot survive without the three-tiered system.” [Ed. As lopsided as the 3-tier system is, all Ansari is seeking to do is sell beer at his location. He is not seeking a dismantling of the system. And for the record, total dismemberment of the 3-tier would likely result in Bud Light bars on every street corner like so many Starbucks. Hey how'd that happen?]

Final Analysis

Levy states that the 3-tier “separates manufacturing, distribution and retailing in the beer business.” Not exactly true. It does not prevent a major beer manufacturer from owning a substantial piece of a distributor. Just look at all the beer delivery trucks that say “so and so distributors” on the cab door, while the entire box is paneled with A-B or Miller-Coors hype.

When the major shareholder in the distribution company and the majority of product moved by that distributor are the same mega-brewery, it takes very little effort to: a) slow-pedal the small guy who is obliged by law to contract with a distributor, of which there is often only one! and b) fail to represent their beer fairly in the market because the squeaky palm gets the grease and by other nasty tricks like removing product from retailer shelves and stealing tap positions.

A small brewery signing an obligatory contract is like a promising musician signed on with a major record label. In other words, sorry to hear that. In this day and age of diversified sales and marketing strategies, social media, and mail order beer sales, it is simply outrageous that wholesalers use their bully pulpit, puppet liquor boards, and fat wallets stuffed by the smaller brewers’ competitors to continue to throttle the commerce of small brewers by referencing corrupt rules that weren’t fair when there were only 75 breweries after Prohibition was repealed and are even more outrageous now that there are over 1800 breweries.

I venture to guess that the reason Ansari is seeking a change in the rules is the absurdity of the following scenario. Under current rules, since the brewery is producing over 3,500 barrels of beer annually (more like 10,000), they exceed Minnesota’s brewpub definition. If they wanted to sell beer at their new location they would have to contract with a distributor and pay them 20, 30, 40% for the privilege to move a keg of beer from the brewery to the taps in front. Distributors/wholesalers argue that they are entitled to cut by law. It is bad enough that when they actually move craft beer from point A to B they don’t add that kind of value worth their fees, charging this bribe for doing nothing but a paper chase is un-freakin-believable.

As the old timers say, “For crying out loud!” I am getting surly. Well, I would if I could. Until then, I’m just plain pissed.

TPJ

Orchestrating Successful Cheese & Beer Pairings

Cheese and beer go really well together. They have for centuries. They grew up hand in hand in small settlements where early people first harvested grains and domesticated milk-giving herds. That may be old news. The newsbreak, though, is that today we live in a global village ensconced in thousands of cheese and beer choices. We have limitless possibilities to pair artisanal cheeses with craft beer from any place, anytime we want.

So why not get together with a few of your friends, or a few hundred of your customers, and orchestrate a perfect cheese and beer pairing?

Overture

Let’s begin with some precepts and traditions that leave your audience clamoring for an encore.

For cheese pairings that are not tied to a specific brewery or distributor’s line, it is best to select your cheeses first, then find the beers that harmonize. Fine cheeses are expensive, and at least in most places in America, selection is limited. If you have access to a huge variety of cheese or are planning on a tasting that pairs beers from a single source, say a brewery or a locality, choose a variety of beer styles to allow more flexibility in cheese selection.

The amount of cheese you serve depends on the event. If it is a course in a dinner, choose two or three cheeses and provide no more than one ounce of each cheese per guest. For full blown cheese and beer tastings you will want four to six varieties, serving between an ounce and an ounce and a half of each. A beer size of four ounces works well. You may also have some condiments, crackers, plain bread, and drinking water.

Cheese flights ready for the curtain to come up. (Source: ontolondon.blogspot.com)

There is a tradition in cheese tasting of working around the plate clockwise from the 6-o’clock position. Your guests may not be experts in cheese and may not recognize which cheese is which simply hearing the name of it. Starting at a set position allows everyone to stay together and pair the right cheese with the designated beer.

Just as with tasting a flight of beers, there can be palate fatigue. It is generally advised to move from mild, low acidity cheeses to blues or washed rind cheeses of greater intensity. Occasionally, the cheeses will be ordered more in relation to their milk type and age, putting younger goat’s and sheep’s cheeses first, then the older cow’s milk cheeses. The tasting order is really up to the planner where the judicious juxtaposition of textures, age, and rind can create exciting cheese drama. (Yes, I said that, cheese drama.)

First timers will benefit from a straightforward methodology for the tasting. Each should begin by getting familiar with the beer by sniffing and sipping some. This is a good time to recognize the major flavors in the mouth, including: grainy, toasty, malty, fruity, bitter, resinous, herbal and floral. More on beer flavor can be found at beersensoryscience, along with a nice version of the famous Meilgaard Beer Flavor Wheel.

After the beer has cleared the throat, place some cheese in the mouth. If the cheese has a distinct rind, start with some pâté from the center of the cheese, leaving the rind for a subsequent bite. Let that cheese soften on the tongue forming a paste. This only takes a moment, but it can be hastened by pushing the tongue upward until the cheese hits the roof of the mouth. Make a mental note of the principal cheese flavors and textures, which might include: creamy, buttery, nutty, sweet, tart, minerally, salty, musty, mushroomy, herbal or grassy. More cheese flavors are listed in this Italian cheese wheel, this French wheel specifically for Compté, and this source, too.

With the cheese soft on the tongue, add a sip of beer and notice how the cheese and beer combine in the mouth. At the very least there should be a happy balance between the flavors and intensities of both. Notice how the beer lightens the cheese texture and lifts it from tongue. Though we don’t usually eat this way, swishing the cheese and beer in the mouth enhances the reactions between the two and brings about a crescendo of flavor. In the best pairings you will observe harmonies, where the beer and cheese ennoble each other releasing hidden tones related to terroir and ingredients.

Providing a note card for people to jot down impressions is essential for commercial tastings. Casual sessions at home will benefit from this, too. It is common for a guest to enjoy a particular pairing and not be able to remember the names of a peculiar cheese or beer the next day.

Improvising

Cheese-beer tastings do not require a theme, although thematic pairings can be instructional. One approach is to have a “milk vertical.” Start by picking a type of milk, specifically, cow, goat, or sheep. Offer a range of cheeses made with that one kind of milk, working from the mildest to the strongest and saving blue mold and washed rind cheeses for the end.

You might pick all cheeses with a manufacturing similarity. For instance, bloomy rind or blue mold cheeses, or perhaps cheeses made by the cheddaring process. Cheeses could be grouped by texture, by region, or even a crazy, aesthetic theme. You might plate various cheeses that all have holes in them. On game day, say if you’re a Princeton fan, you could play off team colors with orange cheeses paired with black beers.

Generating Applause

Your cheese tasting can only be as good as the cheeses. You must find a reliable cheese monger and take the time to explore new styles. Most will happily give you a small taste of cheeses that interest you. Grocery chains may have the best price, but most of these cheeses will be produced by large factories and will typically be tamer in flavor. You want idiosyncratic cheeses from smaller producers that have been handled and sold by cheese experts.

Seek out local cheese producers. Their products haven’t suffered in transport, you can support local agriculture, and save a few dollars. As with craft beer, it is possible for artisan cheese makers to make almost any style they set their mind on. Absolutely first rate cheeses of many classic and emerging styles are now made in America. You just have to find where they’re hiding. Of course, finding treasured cheeses offers value to your guests, who can now purchase good local cheese instead of industrial imitations.

Researching pairings is key to finding the best combinations. Here a flight of mostly goat's milk cheeses are tasted with three different styles of wheat beer: German hefeweizen, Belgian witbier, and American wheat beer.

If holding a professional tasting for a paying audience, you must conduct trial tastings. What people are paying for is not just some cheese and some beer. We’ve probably all been let down by ill-rehearsed food-beverage events. Guests deserve to be entertained, educated, and wowed. Time permitting, trial tastings are even a good idea for a home pairing.

Trial tasting can allow you to discover where the cheese and beer you thought would surely match… simply don’t work. While each is good on its own, together they somehow get metallic or ammoniac or sour. Just as one pale ale differs from the next, cheddar is big universe, from young, bland and rubbery to grassy, nutty, crumbly, minerally, sharp and quixotic.

There is no substitute for knowing your audience. If hosting a casual tasting among friends there’s no need to be formal. Set out the cheeses on a nice wood or stone surface, provide cheese knives, and a little sign with each cheese name, milk variety, and place of origin. You may find that even in the most casual settings your guests will want to jot down their favorites for later, so provide a pen and paper.

In a more commercial environment, make sure you’ve done your homework on each cheese and each beer. Anticipate audience questions and be an authority. Know the manufacturing basics for each cheese. What type of milk? Pasteurized or raw? Special finishing with white mold or washed in beer? What season of the year was it made? Who makes it, a nunnery in the Pas de Calais or an old woman in the Alps or a huge factory in Lille? Understand why this cheese is special. Know why you chose it and rejoice in the complexity and balance of the beer pairing that you have chosen.

And there’s one last thing, that little three-letter word: fun. Any two persons’ tastes will differ as much as two blue cheeses. There is no absolute answer. Approach your cheese and beer pairing with a healthy attitude of discovery and you will excite and inform while the ancient and magical rhythms of cheese and beer do the rest.

Cheers, TPJ.

p.s. If you are in Nebraska, don’t miss the Cheese & Beer – Far & Near tasting. Friday, March 4, 2011, 6 pm at the Derailleur Tap Room in the Bricktop, 1427 O St., Lincoln, NE. Tickets are $45 and on sale now. Here’s the poster for the event and more details on the pairings are found here.

Cheese and Beer ~ Far and Near

It has taken long hours in planning, scheming, and tasting, and now we’re just two weeks away from an awesome event: Cheese and Beer ~ Far and Near.

From the Press Release:

The Derailleur Tap Room at the Bricktop pairs their exclusive craft beer selection with handpicked cheeses from around the world. Cheese and Beer – Far and Near is a guided tasting designed to astound Nebraskans with exciting flavor combinations.

Five substantial portions of cheese with snifters of fine beer will be provided. The fascinating origins of traditional cow, goat, and sheep milk products will be described for cheeses from Nebraska, Massachusetts, England and France. Special ales and lagers from sought-after breweries in the US, Belgium, and Norway will be expertly matched to the cheeses and interesting facts of each beer’s production, ingredients, aromas, and flavors will be given.

The cost is $45.00 per person for the event, expected to cost upwards of $65-70 in larger cities. Tickets go on sale at the Derailleur Tap Room at the Bricktop at 4 pm on Friday, February 18th. Tickets are limited to the first 50 persons and are expected to sell out quickly.

For the past several weeks, Craft Beer Manager Jason McLaughlin, organic cheese maker Krista Dittman, and I have been tasting various cheeses against special beer selections. We’ve been looking not only for solid pairings, but pairings with synergies that release hidden flavors and liberate nuances. If you’ve ever added a few drops of spring water to a single malt whisky, or combined vanilla with lobster, you know what we’re talking about.

As a preview, I thought I’d list the courses in general terms. Maybe as we get closer I’ll provide more specifics, but that might take some prodding!

  • French abbey cheese, pasteurized cow’s milk, lightly washed rind, served with an abbey quadrupel from Belgium.
  • Artisanal chèvre log, blue mold exterior, paired with a Belgian witbier.
  • Rustic Spanish cheese, raw ewe’s milk, quite surprising with a Belgo-IPA and side condiment.
  • ‘Swissy’ farmstead cheese, raw cow’s milk, with a malty, nutty doppelbock.
  • English farmstead cheddar, raw cow’s milk, dances with a resinous American double IPA.

Jason and I will MC the event. He will describe the beer we’ve chosen, after which I’ll outline the cheese and guide the pairing of the two. We also have two special guests: Marty Wells from The Saucy Cook and Krista from Branched Oak Farm.

This is a high energy event that will last about an hour and a half. Come with an appetite and be prepared to be wowed. There will be cheese drama. Yes, that’s what I said cheese drama!

Cheers! TPJ

Extreme Beer Fest Photolog

This weekend’s little trip down the road to Omaha was really rewarding. This coming from a guy jaded by so many beer fests that he sometimes goes begrudgingly. Not this one, though. Things were off on the right foot, soon after arriving at the Best Western Seville Plaza. It was cheap, located in a neighborHOOD a mile and a half from the venue, so the cab fare wouldn’t break the bank. Better than that, they had a free van driven by a cool old dude named Larry who not only dropped me right at the joint, but he picked me up within minutes of a phone call after dinner after the festival. Big tips for ole Larry, for sure. Plus, the place was home to these gentile old southern gals, “Okay sugga” this and “what can I gitcha hon” that.

As for the beer fest, no more effusing, just pictures and few captions. They say it all.

 

Love those old farmer dudes. They enjoy their beer, not to mention that New Year's Eve dance where I saw them all doing Y-M-C-A!

Upstream brought on the goods. And I learned that jockey boxes were "fer leanin'".

Pretzel paradox.

Odells bringing on the Avant Peche. Too cooked and jammy for me... maybe if they served it on toast.

Enthusiastic volunteers and thirsty pilgrims. Not too many dumbass cloggers, too. If you mutter 'clogger' under your breath, most people will apologize and move away, unless they're loaded, in which case they can no longer hear.

"Why am I smiling? Don't be silly. Look what I'm serving!" For the record: St. Bernardus Abt and Tripel, Aventinus, etc...

Good job organizing and supplying able volunteers and plenty of good brews. See you next year. Cheers! TPJ

A Cheese Only a Mother Could Love

In her book on home cheese-making, author Ricki Carroll says blue cheeses are like children, easy to make but hard to raise.

Now that my four little Stiltons are born, well, see for yourself. About now I begin giving them little baths in salt water, helping them grow that skin that will keep their lovely moisture inside. Every day they must be turned and wiped and whispered sweet cheese-maker’s incantations. And man oh man, my cheese fridge sure does smell like, well, a cheese fridge.

It won’t be too long now, before I’m in front of the counter at Neal’s Yard Dairy in London asking for a taste of the real Stilton.

Here’s an interesting story about Stilton, which, as it turns out, isn’t made in Stilton.

Say Cheese! TPJ

 

Palate Jack Winter Tune-up

This post is coming direct from email – just to tell you that I’ve updated the look and functionality of my site. I’m getting ready to be able to post articles from wherever I am by different means. This will be handy when I’m traveling abroad in the coming months and when I’ve hooked up with interesting people at festivals. Cheers! TPJ

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